Wednesday, July 6, 2011

For my grandmother on her birthday - Kostroma


Ever since I was little, I've always adored my grandmother's paintings. I used to wander around the house, admiring the different pastels and blending of colors that just swirled into images right before your eyes. It is her artwork that gave me the appreciation that I have for classic art, and especially for impressionism, so much so that my year in Nancy, France included many visits to the art museum. To this day I always associate France, especially Paris, and the River Seine, with those impressionistic colors, just like the ones my grandma uses.

When my friend Sarah convinced me to go on this random trip to Kostroma, never did I imagine that what I love about France with all of its lovely colors would burst out right before me. Admittedly Kostroma is a tiny city, with surprisingly few churches and monasteries, compared to the other Gold Ring towns. But in a way it was refreshing to see new things. We spent time visiting a wood museum with old wooden houses from the 19th century. We even visited the house of Snigouritchka, the daughter of snow, and Santa's granddaughter, who helps him deliver gifts to children every year. Even in the summer heat, inside her house we smiled with glee at the Christmas trees and ornaments, almost as excited as the little children on our tour when we met Snigouritchka herself!

I suppose what really struck me was the second day of our trip, when we decided to visit the countryside at a moose farm. I thought of my grandparents, and how much they would have loved the beautiful countryside, tucked far from any city, with wildflowers and birds everywhere you looked. It truly reminded me of that Monet painting of people walking down a hill of wildflowers. I wish I could remember the name.

Finally Sarah and I settled down on the sandy river bank, along the Volga. It was a wide but peaceful river, and colors were so stunning, that if you looked to the distance at the monastery, you could almost imagine that you were on the bank of the Seine, appreciating the Ile de la Cite. Everything was so calm and peaceful, with gardens and flowers everywhere we turned. Our friend Dima explained that Kostroma had been transformed in the past few years, turning from a rundown city to a masterpiece. I guess I really wanted to buy that tiny pastel painting I saw at an outdoor market, it seemed to represent Kostroma perfectly, and I could picture it next to my grandma's paintings, to show her what I had seen! Only to discover that she had already been there!! I guess I may never catch up to my adventurous grandparents, but I sure will try!

Saturday, July 2, 2011

Suzdal


Suzdal is arguably the most popular city in the Gold Ring, although for a long time I had no idea why. Every description of the town seemed to be similar to any of the other towns I had been to in the region, and I wondered what could make this city any more spectacular than Vladimir, Pereslavl Zelsky. Just more churches and wooden houses right?

Well, in a way yes. But then again, when we arrived, I realized rather quickly why people told me that you need more than just a day to visit Suzdal. What I thought would be a charming little town ended up being a sort of Disneyland for adults who really love churches, countryside, and wooden houses. I was so overwhelmed by the sheer mass of things to see, that I seriously regretted the fact that we had only slept 4 hours the night before.

Despite the sheer mass of things to see, Suzdal still holds the "little country town" charm, with delightful streams full of luscious lily pads and plenty of tiny wood bridges. Everywhere you walked there were horse drawn carriages and musicians, and of course the expected hoards of tourists who came to celebrate mid-summer. I could imagine that Suzdal is lovely in the winter, but I think in the end everyone in our group declared that summer was by far its most beautiful season. The flowers were even more in bloom here, and the grass was growing as if there was no tomorrow. We laughed as a group of swimmers attempted over and over again to retrieve the rope swing from over the river.

The breeze was almost as sweet as the mead we drank, "myedovoukha," which was hommade and tased just like the honey had been harvested that day. Suzdal is an absolute must see, because no matter what age you are, you can feel the magic, as you are transported back in time to some ancient, simpler, happier way of life.