Admittedly this is good practice for me, trying to explain what I've seen with words as opposed to my usual resort of plastering a photo on the screen and calling it good...
This weekend I got my cultural fix for the century. It's little events like these that remind me that even though Reunion is France, it definitely is a far cry from "Metropole."
Sunday I was at my friends' house when I heard distant drums. Despite the almost 3 months that I've lived here, I had never heard that rhythm before. Sylvain informed me, "Ah yes, today they're having a ceremony at the Hindu temple. They're going to walk across the coals." This is the kind of thing you hear about in books, and you always think that it must be some sort of myth. People walking across coals? really? Doesn't it seem a little too toasty outside to be dancing on top of fire? It was too good to be true, of course we had to go.
As we got out of the car, the procession was heading down the street, incense in full swing, and plenty of scattering of flowers, fruits, and other sacrifices. Each time they turned a corner, more chants were recited, more coconuts were cut with a dangerous looking sword/saber type weapon, and more candles were left behind. We entered the garden of the temple, behind the gate with the rest of the nonbelievers leaving our shoes at the entrance. I stood on a bench with some Creole teens, waiting as they went through all of the sacrifices and preparations of the coals, hoping my knees wouldn't give out.
Before the ceremony started I tried to remember everything I knew about Hindu religion. I will admit I had forgotten most of what I had learned from 9th grade World Civ, which I took over summer school. Oh well, we can't be perfect. At any rate, upon further research later (I went to the library today, since it is the best air conditioned location in St Gilles where you aren't required to buy something), I remembered that the Hindu culture focuses a lot on reincarnation.
According to Hinduism, every time you die you are reborn once more until you learn to be perfectly at one with the universe. Once you reach this state you can finally rest reaching Nirvana, and no longer have to go through the cycle. From what I remember (hopefully somewhat accurately),In Hinduism it is important to make sacrifices, to bring yourself closer to this natural purified state, proving yourself closer to your religion/enlightened state. One way to prove your faith and determination is to walk across coals.
Once the sacrifices were complete (well, almost, after sundown they slaughter two calves), the ceremony began with the priest so effortlessly walking across the coals, I almost didn't realize what he had done until he was to the other side. I was so taken aback, that by the time the first devotee walked across, I still couldn't believe my eyes. As each one went across, you could see different expressions on their faces. Some showed looks of fear, others you could tell were in pain. More impressive were those young men who walked across slowly, with an expression of pride, and almost a sense pleasure in a strange way. The most moving were those who carried their young children across, who either looked excited to be in the middle of show, or afraid, like the one small girl who buried her face in her father's shoulder.
At the end of the ceremony, the sun set, and everyone started dancing to the drum, the men, exhilarated with the feat they had just completed. I walked away in awe, truly moved by the whole process, with the chants, incense, drums, bright colors, and determined faces. This is France. But not completely.
It's amazing how powerful a thing like religion can be. Here on this tiny island it seems to be poking out in all corners. Whether you hike in the mountains, or are driving along the highway, you are bound to come across a tiny shrine to a saint of sorts, called St Expedit. Not purely Catholic, he is called upon in times of danger, and helps those in need, regardless of religion it seems. This island
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